Leaving

Lotus and Bee

Home again- Om again

A long long day of travel. Leaving our sweet space in Ubud, dear friends gathered for a final good by. Riding silently in the back seat memorizing the sights that are so unique to Bali. Check in a breeze, not even a glance askew at our four check-in bags. No weight issues. The flight to Taipei was turbulent and seemed long. Bumpy landing. Waiting another two hours in the airport, hobbling around in search of a coffee. At one time Ron had me sit in the pushcart meant for luggage but we got repriminded by a security person so I had to hop off and limp along. Check in was easy, lots of security. The plane was new and comfortable. Paying more for elite economy turned out to be really worth the cost. Seats were wider and there was a lot more leg room. Service was excellent, food pretty good. The headphones were crappy, and eventually they made some garbled announcement which I couldn't make out and all the screens went black. Just as well because mostly everyone went to sleep. We took ambien and closed our eyes and somehow 4 hours disappeared. Because of tailwinds our flight was a total of ten hours. Going the opposite direction it was 14 hours from LA to Taipei. Smooth flight, no turbulence which I was eternally grateful for. LAX was easy and we got to Avis an hour later and got our rental car and took off. First stop, Starbucks for a strong vente coffee, a cookie and a bottle of water. Made it to the house in an hour and a half. Rewarded with our soft mattress and cocoon of down pillows. That is one of the worst things about traveling, crummy mattresses and rock hard oversized pillows. This morning we awoke and went straight away to Pete's for coffee. Bought some food at Traders and went home to fix the dead battery in Ron's truck and the broken lock on the front door. Our dear friend Ron Metheny was watching over our house and garden while we were away, and he did an awesome job. Orchids are flowering, mail neatly stacked, essential bills paid. How could we go without the help of others?! Tomarrow I have to find a doctor to remove my stitches, convince Cox cable to give me the deal of the century, and start working our way through a ton of mail and phone messages. We're back!

Last dance

With a heavy heart we spend our last night here in Ubud. We've become contented here. Made friends. Felt like we became a tiny bit of the community. It will be hard to leave this small sweet neighborhood. We've embraced a few of the Balinese customs and made them ours. Like having more patience, and not being so fast to place blame or judgement. They have a graceful way of gliding through life and taking things as they come, good and bad. Women and men are always holding babies, ecstatic in their embrace. And the babies hardly ever cry, so loved and cared for that they don't need to. A flower placed on your doorstep, a quiet offering. The driver who takes you home and understands your jokes. An old woman who walks with dignity and grace while carrying a heavy load of bricks on her head. These people take my breath away. I have much to be thankful for. A wonderfully loving traveling companion, enlightened old friends, generous new friends we've met along the way. Charming little places to stay reminiscent of years ago when things were simpler and easier. The opportunity to wander and experience something new each day. It's not all easy. The romance sometimes grinds to a halt when you don't feel well, can't sleep for the rock hard mattress and the bulky neck wrenching pillows, musty smells, mosquitos, ants, loud music, and exhaust fumes that are so heavy you feel dizzy. These are normal in your world. You can't control everything around you. You have to concede ownership to any place even though you like to think the table you eat at each day is "yours", it's not. You take what is placed before you and make the best of it because that is what you do. I want to thank my friend Robert Sommers, master blogger, who generously helped me conceive and design this blog. He came to our house before we left, sat at our computer and worked through my thousand and one questions and we got Rice is Sacred started. He has been my administrator and has enlarged every photo and spell checked each blog. He encouraged me to write every few days and told me not to embarrass myself starting something and not following through. Here is an example of an email I sent him one especially difficult night: Hi Robert.  Another blog, be it ever so frustrating... I am besides myself when I make a fatal error.  It takes so long to do anything on the iPad.  I tried to delete a word in the title of a photo and the photo was gone from the blog in a matter of seconds, not to be retrieved.  I was cussing up a storm.  Ron braves my wrath and takes a levelheaded approach to fixing it and works his way through the puzzle.  I meanwhile am fuming and freaking....  So you can dress up the photos.  I guess I could have cropped out the blue plastic cloth in the second photo, but I didn't... Thanks for your attention to detail.  Lena xoxo This has been a very fun and enjoyable experience for me. I used to write postcards and letters to my friends but this is a million times more creative. Photos really help, and comments from friends thrill me. Looking at the live feed and seeing who has read the blog is exciting. Having this iPad has changed everything. It is the single most wonderful new toy I have experienced. So much fun to lay in bed and write, google news, read letters, play solitaire. I love it. Tomorrow is hurry and wait day. Morning with friends. Last breakfast, final goodbyes. Driver at noon, return to Denpasar and the airport. Check in, pay departure tax, wait several hours, then it's off to Taipei and then LA. The party is over... Until next time.

6:50 AM

Motorcycle Mishap

Well, all good things must end. Just when I was getting much more comfortable riding on the cycle, enjoying the cool breeze on my skin and the views of the outlying villages, we had a minor mishap two days ago. Fortunately, Ron and I are fine. Grateful we didn't break anything. So many people came to our aid. A hand from behind me kept passing over small antibacterial tissues. Never saw their face. Another man picked up our cycle and moved it out of the street. And a most kind driver helped me into his taxi and drove us to the small clinic just up the street. He waited with my shopping bags in his car for over an hour, drove me home and refused any payment for his time. Such kindness! The doctor there, Dr. Made, is a daughter-in-law of the owner of our guest house. I had a pretty nasty gash on my leg. Needed cleaning and a few stitches. She was kind and gentle. Ron just had some scratches. We both felt so lucky that we were not hurt bad. So I am hobbling around and visiting the clinic every other day to change the bandages. No more swimming sadly, and no more riding the cycle for me. Everyone staying here has been so kind and checking up on us. Our friends Allan and Issac brought me their computer and for the first time ever on our travels we laid in bed and watched a movie. Felt so weird. You can buy bootleg DVD's here for a couple of bucks, so there are all the new movies I hadn't seen With Indonesian subtitles. Today was Nyepi. Dewa came to our room early, about 6:30, with our coffee and tea. We sat on our porch and watched the sun brighten up everything after the night's rain, and then a beautiful rainbow. It was such a nice way to start the "new year". Most everyone tried to be respectful of the traditions today. No loud talking or noise. Stayed in our rooms or gardens. They make allowances for tourist, fed us breakfast, but other than that we fended for ourselves. Had some food, ice in a cooler. Simple stuff. Since I have been forced to keep my leg elevated and not walking much, this was easy for me. Read my book, played on the iPad and had a few conversations quietly with friends leaving tomarrow for Bhutan. The electricity has been turned off. Ron is reading with his headlamp and it is getting hot in here with no air con or fan. Overall, it has been interesting to experience Nyepi. In the silence any sound was magnified. The most noise came from the doves and the roosters. Even the dogs were quiet!

Temple

Temple carving

Silent Day

Once a year, people in Bali celebrate Nyepi day. Nyepi means silent. For 24 hours all people stop their activities and the island becomes quiet, calm and peaceful. People fast and ponder their regrets on their mistakes during the year. The day is dedicated to meditation and silence. The airport closes, no cars or motorcycles drive on the streets and no one walks on the streets. There is no electricity used, no work or cooking of food. Essentially everything shuts down. We have to gather our food the day before and can wander around our compound and swim in the pool, but in quiet. The weeks before Nyepi are busy with the construction of ogre-ogre. These are large statues made out of wire, paper mâché and painted vivid colors. They are paraded through the streets the night before Nyepi to help ward off the demons that might be passing through. Then on Nyepi all is silent, hoping to fool the marauding demons into thinking no one is around and they will continue along and not cause trouble. There is an ogre ogre being built at our cottages. All the boys take part and often we hear the kids laughing and carrying on way into the night while they sculpt and paint. There have been celebrations every evening this week. We have been listening to gamalan and drumming late into the night from the nearby temple. The locals are dressed in their best ceremonial sarongs, women often with tall offerings balanced on their heads, pyramids of colorful fruit and flowers. Tonight is the parade of all the ogre-ogre. Tomarrow we will be quiet and enjoy a day of silent meditation, celebrate nature, and the coming of the new year here in Bali.

Blessings

Another typically magic day

Each day now is precious and dear. Time slipping through my fingers like sand. We took a long hike along the path on the ridge following the river Sunday. Maybe we ventured out a little too late, 10 am, because the sun took its toll on us. We carried water but sweated so much that we were both dehydrated and weak on our return, just an hour and a half later. We took a swim and fell asleep in our chaise exhausted. Awoke famished and somewhat hypoglycemic, so we dressed and rushed down our drive to the small Japanese deli across the street. We barged in, butted in front of another couple pondering the menu and pointed out our choices of food. WE NEEDED FOOD NOW!!! Felt a little guilty but really didn't have a choice. After lunch we felt much better. The heat and humidity take a toll. Today we rode our cycle to Mas, the woodcarvers village. We checked up on the slab of wood we bought and are having made into a dining table. Many details to correct, shape of the legs, choice of wood, curve of the edges. You really can't leave anything to chance. This is our fourth trip to the factory. Won't be our last. Rode back as a drizzle of rain started so we stopped at Moka Cafe for a cappuccino and an almond croissant. Our treat to ourselves. Then we rode further to Threads of Life. This small shop supports local women in all the islands who weave fine cloth in the old methods. Each island, such as Java, Sumba, Timor and Flores, have a style that is uniquely their own. So, if you look at a weaving you can recognize its orgin. They display how threads are dyed with natural colors, photos of weaving patterns and techniques. I lusted for each piece; sarongs, ikats, wall hangings, pillows. Each label listed the name of the weaver, the dyer of the threads, and the village she lived in. Prices were high, but then you were supporting this cooperative helping women maintain the old traditions and quality of weavings. Such beauty takes a long time and a passion passed down for generations. We couldn't resist buying a few small pieces. Later we walked over to the village of Penestannan where we found the Vespa Cafe and TingTing Gallery. Our friends, Tony and Elizabeth, live behind TingTing in a beautiful house surrounded by 12 Rai of land, which is quite a large area. We've known Tony and Elizabeth for about 20 years. We met in Chaing Mai, Thailand and have run into them each time we have been on Koh Samui island. They are from Alaska and leave every winter for warm climates. This time we ran into them on the beach and they told us they sold their house 6 years ago, bought Apple stock, and moved to Bali. They were in Thailand on a visa run and taking a break from the rainy weather. So we stayed in touch and made a plan to met up this evening. Their home is really nice and has the most wonderful pool and surrounding gardens. Really big vista of trees and flowering plants as far as you could see. Really private. Yet walking distance to most anything you would need. We had a great time catching up on each others lives and sipping wine that Tony makes. We haven't had a glass of wine in almost three months so that was really a treat. Friends of theirs arrived, we sipped vino well beyond sunset, stories were exchanged and rain once again came down softly for a couple of hours. In a lull from the showers, we borrowed a flash light and walked back to our side of the stream, down the little wet trails and pathways, stopping at BuBu's for dinner. Now we are home, the rain finished, air cool and gamalam music from the temple beyond the stream competing with the symphony of frogs and crickets singing in the paddies. Not a bad day!

Tegallalang Terraces

You like Durian?

Buffalo Bike

Riding with Wayan

We hired a driver yesterday named, what else, Wayan, and took a short drive out of town to see the most dramatic views of the rice terracing. I say "what else" because in a major sect of Balinese people the first child is named Wayan, the second Made, the third Nyoman, and the fourth Ketut. If there is a fifth child or more, then the names repeat. Therefore a huge number of people, men and women, are named Wayan. So anyway, our Wayan took a nice slow circuitous route on tiny narrow roads through lovely countryside, rice fields and small towns. He comes from a family of rice farmers and speaks English well so he was able to answer a lot of our questions. There are usually 2 rice crops a year unless they sneak a Monsanto third crop in. Sadly, altered rice is creeping in to the area because people are so desparate to make a living. Some farmers grow black rice and red rice, but they take a longer growing season so there is less and less. It is back breaking work, start to finish. But so beautiful when the stalks are tall and bright green and waving gracefully in the breeze. After they turn golden, they are ready for harvesting. I have literally watched the rice grow in the paddy near our cottages, about a foot since we've been here. We worked up an appetite riding in the car, so after we returned and took a swim, we happen to find a wonderful tiny new place just down our path which is more Japanese than Indonesian. They had about a half dozen platters of prepared foods and you just pointed out what you wanted from each, and they totaled up what you owed. We had agedashi tofu with a tiny mound of freshly grated radish, lightly stir fried bean sproats and green beans, and a couple of medallions of panko crusted fried chicken breast. It was light and simple, delicious and fresh. We drank homemade iced ginger and lemon with a honey sweeter. Unbelievable how good freshly squeezed ginger can taste. I haven't written as much about food since leaving Thailand because, frankly, food in Bali is less inspired. Fewer spices, less variation, much blander. But, there are a lot of places opening that serve natural healthy "western" foods, and they are really really good. So there is some degree of satisfaction in having something different to choose from. I am always amazed to see these long menus offering numerous complicated dishes in the tiniest places with the smallest kitchens. I will miss being able to have such fresh foods cooked for me anytime I want it. It has been a real treat!

Joglo house with alang alang roof

Garden view

Hanging out space

Bali bath

Wall of the old Joglo

Alejandra

Bali Magic

In the early evening after the intensity of the afternoon sun, ron and I walked over to Alejandra's project to see if she finished the house on time. As we walked down the path we had to sidestep to make room for two men carrying a small wooden table on their heads walking up the path. I knew they must be from the Joglo. As we approached, we could see Ali and her friend moving around putting the finishing touches on the placement of the furniture and the lamps. The transformation in three days time was amazing!! Even the muddy area surrounding the house was transplanted with a border of plants and ground cover. The house was magical. Filled with antique day beds, simple wooden tables, mismatched wooden chairs that she had sanded down to a fresh warm patina of smooth teak. Very charming. Another friend happened by and we were the lucky party of five celebrating her success. We drank brem, which is a sweet rice wine. We danced to Al Green and Sade on the newly polished cement floors, and we excitedly went from one room to another taking photos, and enjoying the views as the light changed from day to evening. We hated to leave but we had no flashlights with us and you can not walk the paths at night without one. So we took our leave in the last of the lingering light, and at the top of the path paused to look back and see the pale warm glow of the Joglo house floating in the peace and serenity of the paddies.

Through the paddies

Along the Path

My Spunk has turned to Funk

Awoke this morning and did not feel so fine. Just off somewhat, no energy, a little stomach rebellion. Went in the pool and couldn't swim much, but enjoyed the cooling effect. Rain easing off now, very hot and humid. As per directions from our friend Alejandra, we walked the other afternoon down the trail, past Yellowflower cafe, made a left at Londo's and then followed a very narrow path between rice paddies to her building site. Everything was wet and muddy from the rains. Slippery. Ron and I have fake Crocs which are great for walking here in the mud and rain, but I think we look like Mickey and Mini Mouse in them. The house Alejandra is building incorporates an old Joglo which she salvaged in Java. Essentially Joglo's are old teak houses some with elaborate carving and thick doors. She has used this one as the bedroom and has built a small open house around it with concrete floors and a woven alang alang roof. Open plan with sitting area, kitchen, and semi enclosed bathroom with carved cement bathtub and a separate shower. Everything exposed to the outdoors, overlooking a small rice paddy and some other houses nearby. Work was going full tilt by a crew of about eight because her first clients were coming to rent the house in three days time. I intend to walk over again today or tomarrow to see how it has evolved. She had a long way to go. They were grinding and polishing the floors and countertops, putting in the bathroom tiles, electricity had just gotten hooked up the day before. I admire her stamina as it is hard to get things done here especially in the heat and the rain. A lot of xpats live here very basically. No air con, no walls on much of their spaces, little luxuries. Sadly, there are so many people looking to live here now that the bucolic nature of the area has changed into a kind of building frenzy, and the beauty of the rice paddies which is what brought us here in the first place is turning into houses and lodging. Since three years time I was saddened to see all the changes. I wonder how the Balinese feel!

Offerings

Everyone's got a cell phone

Woman's fashion

Sunny afternoon

There's always a ceremony somewhere happening in Bali. Last week we heard gamelan music long into the night coming from the temple across the stream, in the next village a five minute walk away. Today we learned that there was to be another ceremony with a procession and offerings and thought we would go. Which means you have to dress appropriately. Both men and woman wear sarongs and colorful sashes. Men also wear white collared shirts or something similar. Girls cover their arms. Most Balinese women wear sheer lace jackets over their fitted tops. Can be very pretty. We actually missed the procession but wandered around the small streets and watched the locals patiently waiting for the priest to finish their sing song prayers. Kids were dressed as miniature adults and were adorable. Everyone playful and having a good time. I tried not to be too offensive taking photos, and managed to sneak in a good one or two. Wasn't sure how much of an intrusion that would be during their ceremony. It actually got sunny for a while this afternoon after a morning of rain. So it felt wonderful to stroll around and observe the sights and sounds. Later about ten of us were in the pool telling traveler's tales. A nice group of people staying here at Melati. Alan, a retired dentist from Toronto introduced me to an American woman who has lived in Bali ten years. She produces hand painted scarves and clothing. We walked over to her compound where there was a small building where her painters were hard at work. Each painter sat on a mat in front of a bamboo stretcher with a long length of silk stretched across it and literally free handed painted the designs. Her house was nearby through a glorious garden. Three stories of elegant Bali style open living. Nice art, and comfortable furnishings. Every window offered a view of tropical plants and flowers. I could understand how you wouldn't want to leave the sanctuary of this home. Nice to get a peek into the possibilities of what you can do here if you have taste and time. As it happens, Alan also knows another woman he wants to introduce me to. When he began a description of her it turned out to be someone I know. An architect from Del Mar. So it really is a small world.

Bali rain

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Flying dragons

Kites

Rain rain rain

Bali rain is like no other rain that you have experienced. It comes down in sheets with drops the size of huge pearls. They come down so hard they bounce off the road. Within an hour the water is reaching your ankles and the earth is saturated. Rivers of water flow down the streets. Tonight we made our way down our narrow curving street to a tiny Japanese restaurant. We were fooled by the clearing sky of the afternoons rain. By the time we barely ate our tofu and pickled vegetables, the rain had returned in earnest. We didn't think to bring the huge umbrella we bought our first day. We waited. And waited. The rain visible in the headlights of the cars and motorcycles circling past. Finally, we just gave in, rolled up our pants and walked into the pouring rain. The worst part was the narrow road twist and turns and crazy drivers race past you inches from your body, disregarding the conditions and the dark. Too much traffic on these tiny roads. But the rain was actually refreshing, we didn't have very far to go, and we were laughing by the time we arrived drenched back in our room. What else to do? We have a nice new motorcycle now, a black Honda Vario. Complete with a black Darth Vader helmet, a more petite white one and one rain poncho. We try to stay on the edge of the roads driving "hati hati" or slowly slowly. This is really a little scary, but also exciting. We can see some of the country roads and sights we would never get to see otherwise. The breeze is cooling and there is definitely a sense of exhilaration. Since it rains most afternoons we try to not get caught in the deluge. But the other day we went to see our artist friend who has painted some of the art in our house. He was happy to see us and of course we immediately saw a couple of large paintings we liked. Such things take time and while we were admiring his work, the heavens let loose with thunder and lighting so loud and stunning it was shocking. It is difficult to explain the amount of water that comes down in Asia. We just finally had to run across the street to a cafe and the three of us had a cappechino and waited. We spend a lot of time waiting, watching the rain. Finally it was a drizzle and so we got on the bike, ron in the poncho and me behind and off we cautiously road home. You really rejoice when you make it. At least we do. Yesterday we rode over to monkey forest and took the small motorcycle trail through the forest. Lots of monkeys hanging around. We went to the Three Monkeys restaurant which we used to eat breakfast at on our last trip. Still lovely as always. We sat in the back beside the small koi pond and relaxed with a fresh coffee and fruit. Then when I went in the back to take a photo I noticed several tables filled with dishes of food all laid out in a glorious colorful array. Turns out the owner was changing the menu and was having a tasting and visual display of all the new foods. We started talking and she graciously gave us a dish filled with roasted veggies, grilled strips of cheese and toasted home made crostini. A reduced balsamic vinegar dressing delicately dressed the veggies. We were so happy to eat such a treat. After a month of wonderful Thai foods this was a taste of home. I would have loved to work my way through a few of the other dishes they looked so beautiful. There are so many fantastic restaurants and so many shops filled with lovely clothing and colorful textiles in such a small area. Shopping here is much more fun and also so frustrating. First of all, you have to constantly be watching your step as the side walks are deadly. Uneven, broken cement. Huge missing sections where you could fall in. Sometimes they stick a palm leaf in the hole as a warning. It is so frustrating because you want to look in the shop windows but you could get hurt if you are not paying attention at all times. Still, we manage. our room has taken on more color as we drape new sarongs over our bed and chairs. The girls, Wayan and Made, come in the mornings to clean and leave flowers on our bed. It is all so easy. We traded in three of our books from home today at the wonderful Ganesh book store. They gave us 90000 Rupiah which is worth about $8. We bought two used books for 160000 Rupiah which we can read and return for half their value back. Not a bad deal really. And it was fun to browse the shelves in English and see what people have read, look at the hard bound new books she had to offer and all the postcards and few art supplies on hand. A really great store. Next door is Bali Buddha, a small health food shop and adjoining restaurant. We bought some natural mosquito repellent called "bug begone". Smells nice. Around the corner is a very tiny warang which is what they call a locals restaurant. Simple homemade foods, plain wooden tables, a few pictures on the walls and two very sweet woman serving you with a calm peacefulness. The food was so delicious and fresh. They made their own sambal, tomato hot sauce, which really gave my curry a rich flavor as well as a zing. We ate well for less than $8 and I can't wait to go back. So our days are full, swimming, walking, riding the motorcycle, shopping, eating, talking to other travelers, reading, writing, watching the rice grow. And it is still raining...

Rainy view from our room

View from Starbucks

:) BALI BAGUS (:

Back in Bali. The magic begins. We had an easy sunset flight into Phuket and a quick ride to the hotel we booked online close to the airport. It was kind of cute but the room was not super clean. Ron was assertive and got us new sheets and more towels and it all eventually worked out. Didn't want to eat in the restaurant there so we walked down the road and across a wide highway, traffic buzzing past. Not much there for tourists, just simple little local joints along the road, one after another, but nothing appealing. Keep walking. Finally a friendly young man who spoke some english welcomed us. Muslim, head covered women were making pancakes but he had beautiful crispy deep fried chicken and sticky rice. Some "nam chim gai " which is sweet chili sauce for the chicken and a pile of fried shallots rounded out our simple meal. We were sweating profusely and we ordered cokes and ice. They did not have cokes but sent a young girl next door to buy for us and brought out big plastic glasses of "filtered" ice. They tried so hard to accommodate our needs. Basic food but very good. Happily walked back to the room and amazingly had a very deep sleep until our wake up call at 4am. Then off to the airport. After a long check in, lots of travelers for the flight to Bali, we got through passport control and into the terminal. Spent our last bhat on two fantastic illy capuchinos. The best coffee we have had since out flight to Asia. Then duty-free for two bottles of Absolute. We took off as a brilliant sunrise colored the sky in a magenta and orange wash. We happened to meet a wonderful young man from Sweden who lives in Bali and shared a table with him while sipping our coffees. He had the seat across the aisle from me and we got into a long enlightened conversation touching on yoga, and the poison that effects the power of politics, and eventually came around to the inevitable "where are you staying". I told him Melati Cottages and he was surprised and told me he lives just across the street in a private home. We were very fortunate as his driver was picking him up at the airport and he offered to have us ride with him. $25 @ and a few forms later, we were through visa on arrival and wheeling our bags through the airport with Johan and Made the driver. A picturesque and sunny ride through small Balinese towns, lush greenery, statuary and wood carvings along the roadside, and rice fields thrilled us. We arrived at our little, favorite, family owned cottages and were in our room by 12:30 in the afternoon. By 2:30 it was pouring, and shocking waves of thunder and flashes of lightening were occurring every minute or two. We waited it out for an hour or two then walked the small trail to the sweet popular restaurant nearby called Lala and Lili's. Everything was wet, and the humidity was heavy. Big difference from Samui where it was hot but not thick and heavy heat like this. We had a cool ginger and lime drink, a fresh salad with avocado (the first salad in months)and settled into the view over a lotus pond and beyond to a rice paddy. Talkative expat settled uninvited at our table and regaled us with his stories non-stop for a couple of hours until we just had to take our leave and wander the path home. Hot hot hot. Took an evening swim in the pool and feel asleep to a symphony of frogs and cricket. This morning our bali coffee and tea was brought to our room where we sat on our porch in big cushioned bamboo chairs and sipped quietly as the morning slowly came into focus. Later we ate our lite breakfast of fruit, took a swim in the pool and headed out on a walk. It was 10:30 and delightfully hot and clear. Then as we were making our round about way to town the rain began again in earnest and we were forced to sit out the rain first at Murni's, a very old famous restaurant by the river. Then proceeded on as the rain tapered off, only to have it come down in sheets again. We stood under an overhang watching the traffic pass, then went into a little shop where an older but wise woman offered to sell us an umbrella. She smiled her toothless smile and with a giggle showed us several to choose from, wisely knowing she had a good chance of making a sale. We bought a nice sarong as well and all of us were happy. We marched on, wet and trying to watch our footing on the uneven broken cement sidewalks. Eventually we arrived at Tut Mok, where they serve the best coffee and have a nice view out to a local soccer field and and the food is excellent. We sat out the rain which was torrential. Hours went past. By 4:30 we decided to go ahead and eat our dinner. By 5:30 we were satiated with a delicious salad and grilled tuna steak. The rain had finally stopped and we could now walk home and save the $5 the taxi drivers would have charged. Clean cool air, but still humid. Got back to our place after 7 hours since we had left. Peeled off our damp clothes, took a swim, made a vodka tonic in our room and had an entirely enjoyable first full day in our beloved Bali.

Healthy

Happy

Last night in Paradise

This is it, our last night living on the beach. Hard to explain how simple and tranquil this has been. Staying here long enough that you are recognized by people, your habits known, your needs met. Our waiter at our favorite restaurant knows we order the morning glories no matter what else we have. He repeats our order before we can say it our selves, " Penang chicken curry, squid with basil and chili, morning glory, rice and two soda water with ice and lime". the sweet girl named Da from the north-east of Thailand who walks the beach selling jewelry, speaks decent English and passes our chaise several times a day, who we like and buy a couple of token necklaces from just so she can make a living. She brings us a sweet rice treat wrapped in banana leaf and leaves it on our chairs. The home made coconut ice cream seller who is so adorable and proud of his product. He separates a small roasted coconut in half, scoops six small balls of fresh ice cream into the coconut, and his young daughter places a tiny umbrella on top with a little crushed peanut, a few strips of fresh coconut and a tiny dome of colored candy. It is a small masterpiece and a very generous offering of one's hard work and decency. People here are so full of life. They work so hard. Yet they smile and have a soft way of taking it all in stride. In this month we have been introduced to wonderful new taste treats that as a tourist you may overlook. An old woman who grills small strips of bamboo which has a sweet mixture of banana and rice and coconut paste inside. Old fashioned Thai treats. Another who makes tiny balls of rice paste with a sweet palm sugar in the middle and everything dipped in fresh grated coconut which literally burst open when you bite through the jelly textured exterior to the sweet sugar inside. People proud of their homemade offerings. The days have become weeks as we've slipped into a more natural pace. The weather improving day by day to the most perfect day, this last one. Awoke to the sound of our new little alarm clock, a two year old who now occupies the bungalow behind us, and starts a non stop conversation the moment he awakens. His silent father walks him to the sand and lets him chatter endlessly before the sun rises. So we awake, take our chaise out to our spot in the sand beneath the twin palms we so like, and we watch the sun break free from the early morning clouds. The water is soft like velvet and we swam slowly parallel to the shore. I don't know of another place where I can swim in such a beautiful calm sea that is warm and with out waves. The day goes by so quickly. My book sits unread because all I can do is watch the sea changing colors, the clouds, the small boats moving by and the planes emerging from the clouds on their way to the airport on the other side of the hills. The "show" keeps my interest in a lazy hypnotic trance and I just can't seem to get past it's allure. I will miss my little simple bungalow by the sea. It is a gift to be living this close to nature. But Bali beckons and there is a little losman in a rice paddy awaiting us so our leaving is bittersweet and exciting all at the same time.

Storm clouds on the horizon

Living With Nature

How we love this beach, it really grows on you. You begin to appreciate it's simplicity. We have had big thunder, wind, rain, clouds, sun, and the doldrums. All in the past few days. Our bungalow is maybe forty feet from the shore break. You really learn to live with the elements. Waves lap the shore, the palm fronds dance and make a sound like soft clapping. The rain beats a percussive beat on the roof tiles, and the fisherman go out in their small kayaks, set their nets and slap the water with their paddles to drive the fish into nets. We lay in our lounge chairs and find it impossible to read. The "show" before our eyes captures our attention. Planes fly from BKK at a steady pace and drop in from the clouds to approach the airport just behind the hills to our right.. The small boats run across the channel to the island across from us and the catamaran comes several times a day across from Hat Rin on the next island. Wind surfers, kite sailers, and a few annoying jet skies troll out beyond our beach. Sellers of sarongs, jewelry, fruit, ice cream, and wind chimes parade up and down the beach hoping you will buy something. The vista is changing with the sunlight and the clouds, light and dark, water green and deepest blue. Hours pass. We know all the regulars, others are intruders on our space. We hoard our bit of beach and give the evil eye to anyone who dares to come within spitting distance of our chairs. So nice to live in the moment, nature our driving force. The three girls who come to clean our room, "Sweep, Giggle and Mop" arrive and take command. Within minutes our bed is made, the teak floors cleaned and the bathroom sanitized. They leave as they came, laughing and talking constantly in their high pitched sing-song tonal Thai. Today we rented a motorcycle. I am afraid to go far but there is a secondary road that connects our little beach resorts that runs in a convoluted path and is not so busy. Found new restaurant and had wonderful pad thai for lunch. The owner asked us if it was good? We said really good. She laughed and said her cook took the afternoon off and so she cooked our order herself. It was great. Such nice mellow people. On the ride home we saw a water buffalo, fighting cocks, stray dogs, and water ponds filled with lotus blossoms. A great day.

Valentines Day Sunset

Double Pleasure Massage

Fruit market

Ricardo and Plaa

Gift of Love

Yesterday, Valentine's day, was an unexpected treat. Ron and I took a song tao , the communal truck taxi's, into Nathon town to meet up with Ricardo and Plaa. It was her day off. We once again met at our favorite coffee/fresh bakery spot, Jun's. After lunch, we went to a nursery where Ricardo bought Plaa two beautiful orchids. On to the open air market for fresh coconut milk, a ripe pineapple and homemade massaman curry paste. Markets here are rich in colorful fruits, some we never get to experience in the states. Brilliant magenta dragon fruit, longons, mangosteens, the list is long. Then we drove to their home on the leeward side of the island, the sunset side. They have a lovely bungalow set on a fairly private beach with lush vegetation. You drive along narrow roads, small local shops here and there, a few houses and lots of coconut palms. Down a private road, between a large pond on one side and the sea on the other sits their house. As a gift of love plaa and ricardo set up their massage tables side by side and gave us each a wonderful massage. Plaa mixed fine ground powder from Bali with scented frangipani oil and gave me a gental rub down to exfoliate my skin. Then with the fresh yogurt she bought the day before, mixed with honey and heated to a very warm temperature, she drizzled it all over me in slow increments and massaged it into my skin. Oh so delicious, soothing and relaxing. Next to me, Ron was getting a more intense deep tissue massage from Ricardo. I was emitting contented sighs as he was making deeper groans as Ricardo worked on his tight spots. After I had showered off my skin felt so soft, and glowed with a renewed lushness. Ron went for a kayak and Ricardo for a sunset swim. Meanwhile Plaa went to work, making us a most healthful dinner in her tiny kitchen. Fresh squash roasted with olive oil and then fresh fried slivers of garlic. Baked giant mushrooms and fried tempee which we skewered and dipped in homemade peanut sauce. A fresh som tom with an unusual sauce made with tamarind paste instead of the usual lime. Steamed cauliflower and broccoli with an excellent spicy sauce she made for another dipping variation. All a mixture of favors and textures to excite our taste buds and so unlike the usual Thai dinners we have been experiencing. A final salad with lettuces and arugula which when you travel in Asia is special. You don't order salads unless you are one hundred percent trusting of the people washing your lettuce. It must be in pure water or you will pay a huge price the next day. Sitting on their front porch, candles and shells everywhere, the sun setting into the sea, soft breezes, sipping white wine and eating slices of fresh pineapple for a dessert. Perfection with two very dear friends who created a day to always be treasured, and remembered with love.

Real food

The last two days have been food heaven enjoyed with our friends Ricardo and Plaa. They have graciously come to pick us up and take us to their favorite restaurants. Ricardo just returned from two weeks in Bali. We went to a seaside restaurant mostly frequented by locals. Plastic tables and chairs in the sand. You have to wiggle your chair legs in the sand to get the angle just right. We let Plaa order. Out came some delicious foods that you would never see on a tourist menu. A whole fish deep fried but not greasy. Very crunchy and fresh, with a grated raw mango relish. Crabs cooked in a light curry soup. Mussels with a fire red dipping sauce. Morning glory in oyster sauce and very delicious coconut rice. So satisfying. Since Ron and I don't have a phone, we communicate via email. Today, after a lovely morning on the beach, Ricardo and Plaa came and picked us up and we went for a good cappuccino at Jun's, where each cup and dish is beautifully crafted in ceramic and uniquely individual. Art adorns the walls and everything is tasteful. From there we went shopping. First the fresh vegetable market. Only a small space and most items still in plastic bags having been delivered that morning. Plaa is planning to cook for us tomorrow so she bought eggplant, baby rocket which is what they call arugula. Fresh giant mushrooms, baby green peas, and tomatoes. I couldn't resist some Persian cucumbers. Then we drove to the tiny shop selling fresh yogurt and fete and baba ganoush. I could feel my taste buds getting all excited as they haven't had these foods since we left the states. Now the real eating began. We drove over to the west side of the island for sunset. Stopped in the main town of Nathon for the nightly food market along the water front by the pier where the ferry's come in from the mainland. So many wonderful smells and foods I didn't know the names of. Ricardo's favorite is called Ha Mok. It is a kind of light custard with either scrimp or crab mixed inside with spices. Then like a tamale, it is rolled in a banana leaf and grilled. They tasted like heaven, so soft and light, but spicy and melt in your mouth. We drank a beer and watched the sun set into the sea. Next we drove up the coast a couple of miles and went to their favorite place, Won Tok. It means sun fall. Another simple restaurant, tables in the sand. Plaa ordered us plates of baby squid cooked whole with a light coating and fried to perfection. Dipped in another one of those red spicy sauces. Hot and sour soup with seafood, chunks of ginger, Keifer lime leaf, lemon grass and things you can't eat but which give the soup such intense flavor. Another dish of seafood cooked with tamarind sauce, the sweetest and least spicy dish but still with a zing. Rice and our green favorite, morning glory. At the end of the meal there were at least 20-25 red chili's left on the plates. We were too full to go for dessert, but maybe tomorrow.

Happy

Hour

A good day on Samui

I awoke early refreshed from a good night's sleep. First thing I did was open up the doors facing the beach and take a look at the rising sun. Took our two chaise lounges down to the sand and placed them in "our spots". This reserves our space beneath two nice big coconut palms where we can relax in the shade and be on the edge of the property. Then ron came out and we took a swim while the sea was calm and there were few people. After a nice shower, we went to the restaurant and sat outside and had our morning coffee, fruit salad and yogurt. Back at the room by 9am. Read our emails, took it easy and then had another hour or two on the beach. Cleaned up and walked up to the ring road and waited to catch the song tao, the local taxi. They are small pick up trucks with bench seats along the side of the bed of the truck and a metal roof. You flag them down, tell the driver where you want to go and he tells you the price. We went to the main town called Nathon. There we went to Asia Travel to book flight tickets to Bali. We took the advice of the more experienced agent when she made a very long face on hearing we wanted to catch the Malaysian flight to KL. she warned us that the morning flight from Samui could be late and as we only had an hour to connect to the international flight it was a gamble. So our plans changed and we are now booked to fly an afternoon flight to Phuket where we will stay over night and then take Air Asia direct from Phuket to Bali. This seemed the best thing to do, and also saved us about $200, the potential of a missed connection, and a lot of worry. After that we walked around, bought some clothes, ate a nice pad Thai and had an iced coffee. Caught the song tao back to our beach and were back in our chaise lounges by 2:30. A very successful day. By 6pm we were having our evening cocktail of absolute vodka, lime and fresh tangerine juice on our front porch. There is no tonic to be had in Thailand as the factory was ruined in the floods. We have resorted to the tangerine juice and it is delicious. We walked down the beach to another restaurant that we went to years ago. It is off the beach on the road in town. More noise and action. But the food was excellent. Red curry with chicken, small eggplant and Thai basil. Fried seafood with sweet sauce, and my favorite greens cooked in a light sauce. Steamed rice and soda water with lime. Our dinner cost $12 including a small tip. We will definitely go there again. There are about a dozen 7-11 stores in every town and we go each night for a big bottle of water and maybe something sweet. They are shockingly cold inside. Feels great. Walked back on the beach a nd now we are home in our little bungalow. A good day on Samui.

Typical Thai

We took a walk into the little town of Maenam a few days ago where we went to see a travel agent to make reservations for our flight to Bali. Being here on an island there are fewer options and more cost. But she came up with a plan to fly from Samui to Phuket on the early morning flight. Then Malaysian Air to KL, layover 4 hours, and then final flight to Bali. Long day but at least we get there in one day. Most flights required a nite in either Phuket or KL. We walked back a couple of days later to pay for the tickets and her little shop was closed. Next door was a small dental office. Ron went in and asked the receptionist if she could call the travel agent. She did, and it turns out she went to BKK for a week. So much for our reservations. So typical. Today we have to take a taxi into the main town and see if we can get the same flights. Hope they are not sold out, or more money. The dental office was cute. You have to remove your shoes before entering, so everyone is barefooted. The two girls there had on pale pink smocks, and when I peeked into one of the rooms, everything including the patient chair was pink. Must be a woman DDS. They posted a menu of options they could perform for you. Under cleanings it said, "light", "medium", or "hard". I found that interesting.

Beach

Bungalow

Breakfast

Peace

With a heavy heart

This morning, after a sleepless and troubled nite, I heard the tiny iPad sound announcing email. Maybe 6:30am. The sun had just crested the hills and the ocean was almost like a lake, smooth glassy water reflecting the red sun on it's dark surface. I opened my mail and learned that my dear friend and former boss, Howard Benedict had passed away the day before. The email was a very tender note from Bogdan letting me know that he had been with Howard just a couple of hours before, holding his hand and telling him all of his patients were missing him and were being well taken care of. What a generous thing to do. I have been blessed to work with these two exceptional dentist, and know that my life would not have been as richly textured without first Howard, and then Bogdan, understanding my wanderlust and need for occasional journeys to feed my curiosity and enlighten my soul. Each time I experience the full moon rising like an orange globe over the sea, or the lanquid sultry heat of an Asian night, or the generosity of a poor hardworking peasant, I feel graditude to each of these men for allowing me to have my proverbial job and my "cake" too. So with a very heavy heart, I went out into the sea before most anyone else was awake and swam in the red water, silence surrounding me except for my own tears and sighs. The Buddhist believe that if you have lived a virtuous life of service, kindness and generosity then you will return to an even better life. I choose to think this will be Howard's gift. Goodbye friend, you are free.

Delicious evening

Just returned from dinner by the edge of the sea, sitting at a bamboo table in the sand. The wind is down to a most delicate breeze, the waves have quieted down to soft gentle hints of sound, and the air is balmy and clear. We walked barefooted along the shore to a favorite restaurant from previous years. Few diners. We almost missed it. Where is everybody? This place used to hum with loud buddha bar sounds and tons of people. Now about a half dozen of us beneath the stars. But so nice to sit and look out across the channel to koh Phangon and the thin line of lights along it's shoreline. We ate a rich panang chicken curry with keifer lime leaf, squid cooked in garlic and basil and morning glory in oyster sauce. So delicious. In three days the moon will be full. The famous full moon party will be in full swing across the channel at koh Phangon which means lots of speed boat taking tourist across the water all nite. Sometimes there can be as many as 30 thousand people partying there. For now, the quiet nite is sacred. The peace a gift.

Massage on the beach

Cool ride

Koh samui

After a confusing and frustrating technical clich, the blog dashboard has now magically appeared once again after a week of vacancy. We returned via the fast catamaran ferry to koh samui, the largest of the three islands here on the east coast of Thailand from Koh Phangon, where we spent the last week in style. We arrived yesterday and checked into our old bungalow resort on maenam beach, a white 4 mile cresant of sand, palm tree lined and the sea changing from pale green to deep blue depending on the clouds and sun. More activity now, more of everything. Kind of makes me shudder, watching the charming little independently owned resorts disappear and the new ugly ones take their place. Ours is hanging in there, abit worn and well used. But, we enjoy ocean front with a nice size deck and shade from the palms which is critical in the heat of the day. Some familiar faces, the people who return year after year. The sellers who walking the beach with their goods have the hardest jobs. Carrying baskets hanging from each end of a bamboo pole weighted down with fruits, coconuts, little burners that they can cook you some skewers of sate along with sticky rice and our favorite, som tom,which is green papaya salad. I tried to lift one of those poles and couldn't get it up off the ground much less walk the beach all day in the soft sand. Last nite we met up with Jim Aplington for a final nite of fun and food before he left this morning to return to BKK to met up with his girlfriend flying in and then going to Nepal. We met in the small town of Boput which has become the new young hip place to stay. The Friday nite market and music scene was starting and it just got better and better as the night went on. We started with a drink on the beach at the reggae bar, then walked along eating, first skewers of very tasty chicken sate and peanut sauce served with cut up cucumber with a lite sweet vinaigrette sauce. Cost less than $2. Next we tasted veggie samosas with wonderfully spicy green sauce. Walking along we made it to a bar with a great offering of crushed lime, mint and vodka and soda on ice. Very refreshing. Later we ate some fried shrimp, a banana crepe with chocolate sauce and a cold water. Wonderful. We settled back on the beach, away from the crowds that had gathered and found a wooden platform with cushions where we sat undisturbed watching the fireworks and the lights along the waters edge. Beautiful. Now on my front deck, two massage people on the sand with their platforms ready to give you an hour Thai massage for cheap, and the breeze strong and cooling, Ronnie bringing a little treat to eat from one of the venders. Time flies. It takes some effort to get comfortable with the slow pace. We are working at it.

Flower offerings to the boat gods...

All best made plans.....

Well in hind sight, TAKE THE PLANE! Horrible night on the train. Diesel fumes and loud machinery just beneath our seats mid car which vibrated all nite and got worse every time we made a stop which was many. Like an iceberg as the A/C was blowing full blast. Just when we thought it would never end, hours after they told us it would arrive, we get off only to discover the buses waiting to take people to various destinations. The driver can only speak one word in English, "samui" which is the first island on our path, or so we think. All different than our last trip. The bus ends up taking 2 hours, and no pee break since the train. No communication other than finding out since the train was late, we now must wait 4 hours at the ferry port until our boat leaves. Exhausted and a long ride still ahead. More diesel fumes wafting in the windows. Will be 24 hours by the time we get to our destination. What was I thinking!!!

Blues compadres

Street fruit

Second class seats

Riding the rails

Ron and I are in a second class sleeper heading south from Bangkok to Suret Thani where we will take a 6:30 am bus to the ferry that will take us across the china sea to Koh Phongkon. We have had a most fantastic 4 days in Bangkok after our return from bucolic Burma. After awakening with the sun and retiring at 9 pm, we hit the streets of Khoa San Road like old pro's. Flew in at 8:30pm and had dinner with our dear friend Jim Aplington at 9:30 along with his Tibetian friends who just happened to be in BKK. We talked and drank beer and ate street food until 11:00 pm. The next morning after a leisurely breakfast along the river at our guest house the three of us took the river taxi to Wat Pho, where we went to the most influential massage school in Thailand and had wonderful massages with herbs. The herbs were small fist size bundles of heated herbs that they massage into you body after having manipulated you into a noodle. I loved the herbs. The smell was intoxicating and filled your lungs with freshness. A sudden rainstorm left us waiting beneath the roof of a temple with at least a hundred Buddha statues adorned with gold. A dozen tourist huddled together, peacefully waiting. A bright energetic Thai woman came along laughing and offering cheap plastic parka's for 3 times their value. We all declined, the rain continued, and she laughed as she went in search of the next sale. where we stay in Banglampoo is famous for the hippie element. The streets are filled with every kind of imaginable tout selling t-shirts, jewelry, clothing, books, and endless carts of food from fresh fruit, pad Thai, beer and mixed drinks, freshsqueezed tangerine juice, coconuts, and indescribable vast amounts of stuff that grabs your attention and strikes your fancy. We realize that this is our "burning man". It is so beyond your imagination unless you have been here to expience. A Fallini movie and height ashberry movie all rolled into one. So much fun. We met up with jim and his friends who live in BKK and had drinks sitting by the side of the road, the show always alluring. Then dinner at a favorite place down an alley with surprisingly killer food and ambiance. Then a late nite stroll to the blues club where a hot group of guys were laying down some strong music and the vodka was flowing. Making a plan for the next weeks took some short consideration. The planes were full, we did not want to go to another city for more shopping and smog. So we scored the last two seats on this train, in second class. Thirty-two bunks per car and two toilets. Ron and I packed a picnic of fresh tangerine juice, absolute vodka, sandwiches, chips and water. Wipes for the table and hands. It is rolling along as I type rocking back and forth, I In my small bunk. Not bad really. Priacy curtain, soft foam pad, fresh sheet and a big white towel for cover. Ron is above me. We ordered a bucket of ice and glasses, and savored several delicious drinks mellowing out the rough edges and lightening the mood. We arrive at 6:30am and then take a bus to the ferry where we then set out across the sea for a few hours hopefully on smooth water for first Koh Samui and then Koh Phangon. I went online and booked us a room at a very chichi resort on a rocky hill between two cresant white sand beaches. Looking forward to relaxing in the comfort of pristine warm water, eating fresh caught grilled fish, and sinking into the gentle pace of the sea and sun. As we rock and roll along, from the rails of 2nd class... I bid you sweet dreams as I slide into my vodka induced soma. Sawaadee ka

Colorful Bagan family

Balloons at sunrise in the morning mist

Arriving at our cottage on Inle Lake

Have you missed us

Have you missed us? Ron and I have been outside of Yangon for the past 12 days and have had no Internet, newspaper, or TV. Imagine! It has been wonderful to divorce ourselves from the rest of the world and immerse ourselves in the slow pace of the countryside. Leaving Yangon we flew on a 72 seat prop plane to Heho airport an hours drive on rough roads to the town of Naungshwe. All flights require you to reconfirm a day ahead. Your guesthouse manager will take your tickets and do this for you. We have found that all flights will be later than you are told. The planes come roaring down the runway, taxi as close to the small terminals as possible, unload passengers and baggage as fast as they can, then load the waiting passengers and roar off down the runway. About 10 minutes turnaround. A bit unsettling, but somehow it seems to work. It is very crowded with tourists and most of the flights and hotels are full. We have been most fortunate in that we came here thinking we could just leave all up to chance, but times have changed. Thankfully our hostess at the charming Inn we stayed in Yangon called ahead to the next Naungshwe and we slipped into the Princess Cottages on a cancellation. Only eight cottages in a lovely garden, and a pool. The town is small, diet roads mostly, abit funky and low key. But, we relaxed in our garden at the edge of town listening to birds, crickets and locals riding their bikes singing out loud. Chanting morning and night from the nearby monastery. We could walk the entire town, or better, ride a one speed bicycle. Nearby was the best restaurant in town which we ate at each nite. Awaking with the sunrise, in bed around 8:30. We could only stay 4 nites as he was booked up, so we ended up reserving a bungalow about an hours boat ride away on Inly Lake. The bungalow was on stilts on the water. Most people hire boats to take them around the lake visiting small towns, markets, and the usual tourist things like silversmiths, weavers of local textiles, cigar makers. And the many temples. Every place mostly shacks on stilts, dirt roads, very poor existence. But the people are cleaver, and have created floating gardens for veggies on little man made islands and the fishermen go out each day in tiny narrow wooden canoe and control the rudder/oar with their foot as they man the nets. Sunsets are brilliant and then the roar of all the boat engines taking all the travelers on the lake becomes silence. Sky filled with bright stars and nothing to do but eat dinner and read a book. After a very mellowing 6 nights in these two places, we took an afternoon boat back across the lake to town, then a bicycle rickshaw to our bungalow where our manager had our airline tickets. He informed us that the plane would be an hour later. This was no surprise. The hospitality was so gracious. We hung out there, they served us cool smoothies and later watermelon, arranged our taxi to the airport and took care of all of our needs. No charge. After an hour ride back to the airport we waited just a bit longer,than we thought. Met a nice couple from England who happened to be on our flight and staying at the same hotel we reserved. Then there was a commotion and a group of young Burmese moved as one towards us and announced in very accented English that our airline, Yangon Air, was not coming, but they would put us on Mandalay Air. We were whisked onto the flight with our bags before as the plane was running late and was doing the fast turn around. After we took off, we discovered we were not going straight to Bagan as we planned, but flying to Mandalay first, then flying to Bagan. oh well, you just have to give up control and go with it. Bagan is one of the most unique and special places on earth. Thousands of temples on a vast plain. To make up for the extra landing and takeoff, we came in just as the sun was setting over Bagan and was rewarded with incredible views. When we got to the the hotel we found that our room had a most outstanding view. We were located adjacent to the architectural reserve and from our second floor room, we could look out over the plain and see hundreds of temples. Breathtaking. At night, several of the larger temples were lit up. This is many miles of temples. Mornings by sunrise we had a show of six huge balloons lifting over the plain, tourist ten to a basket paying $300 to view the temples from the air. We got to watch from below. Renting bicycles we rode several days over gentle hills to many of the temples. We chose to forgoe a guide so we could elude the regular tourist groups. Afternoons were so hot that we would return to our hotel and lay by the ice cold pool to refresh. Sunset we would bike off again for another show. Amazing light. Evenings, dinner outside on the patio. Simple curries, vegetables, rice. Very very simple. We flew back to Yangon late last nite. Back to our lovely Inn which we reserved when we left. The entire trip we have been blessed to have very nice accommodation and people looking out for us, "minding our journey". One last day and then back to Thailand to rendezvous with our dear friend Jim and another phase of the trip. So, from my sweet bed at the Classique Inn, looking out the window to the top of the temple light in the distance, we send you greetings Burmese style, "Mingalaba"

Little monks

Asia air

Leaving BKK was comfortable as we had a late afternoon flight and late check out. Weather had improved greatly. Air quality was nice and we were getting our travel groove back. Wandered the small soi, or alley ways, and bought a fresh bottle of cold tangerine juice. Packed our bags. Always packing our bags. Ate lunch along the river and felt good. Ron scored a brand new taxi with the plastic still on the seats. Usually you get old worn taxi with no shocks and bottomed out seats. Took an hour to reach the airport. Long lines for check in. We are flying Asia Air as they are the bargain airlines these days. No thrills. No drinks. Pay extra for every increase in kilo. We bought 20 kilo each, but when we weighed our bags mine was only 11K and Ron's was 16K. Room to expand. Waited at the airport a good two hours. Flight delayed about 30 minutes. Almost full. So for the one hour flight to Yangon, we spent 3.5 hours getting there. The arrival in Burma was interesting. Filling out forms, and Q-ing up at passport control, waiting for stamp in your passport. Then another longer wait for your bags. Walking outside the airport was chaos. Loud whistles summoning taxis, crowds of men wearing long lungi's like sarongs, endless cars bellowing exhaust and loud voices. We stood there taking it all in when a very sweet faced young man stood before me and said in a soft voice "you wish for a taxi". We said yes. And "how much?". He said $10 which was less than we had expected so off we went with him. Of course his old white car had no windows and we left in a lurch and a grumble of gears. The air quality was beyond anything breathable which I learn now is not only from the exhaust of vehicles, but the fires most poor people burn to cook. We choked along until we made it to an area that was obviously upscale. Large homes, embassy's and trees. We pulled into our small inn and felt relief from all the chaotic energy outside. We were really lucky to have a reservation at the Classique Inn. A sanctuary. Nice garden, sweet people and only 10 rooms. With a shower in our cool room we went for dinner in the garden where the most precious faced young man served us in a slow and most careful manner. Learned how to say hallo, mingalabar, which literally means blessings to you. Winding down, renewing our energy. Last evening we went to the famous and most revered pagoda in Burma, the Shewedagon. Spent hours there with hundreds of Burmese and monks, tourist. All walking barefooted on old marble stones worn smooth from hundreds of years of bare feet. Easy, peaceful. No hype. No selling of anything. Just gentle people strolling and smiling. Scented flower offerings. Huge hanging temple bells. Monks softly chanting. We watched the sunset and sat and enjoyed watching the show. Very touching. Today, we pack our bags again and take an after noon flight to Inle Lake. 13 miles long lake surrounded by green hills. We will stay here and fill our lungs with fresh air and hike around, take some rides on the lake and generally relax. More on Inle later. For now we leave our sanctuary and return to the airport and the waiting game.... Mingalabar.

Hurry and Wait!