Tuesday, February 28, 2012

:) BALI BAGUS (:

Back in Bali. The magic begins. We had an easy sunset flight into Phuket and a quick ride to the hotel we booked online close to the airport. It was kind of cute but the room was not super clean. Ron was assertive and got us new sheets and more towels and it all eventually worked out. Didn't want to eat in the restaurant there so we walked down the road and across a wide highway, traffic buzzing past. Not much there for tourists, just simple little local joints along the road, one after another, but nothing appealing. Keep walking. Finally a friendly young man who spoke some english welcomed us. Muslim, head covered women were making pancakes but he had beautiful crispy deep fried chicken and sticky rice. Some "nam chim gai " which is sweet chili sauce for the chicken and a pile of fried shallots rounded out our simple meal. We were sweating profusely and we ordered cokes and ice. They did not have cokes but sent a young girl next door to buy for us and brought out big plastic glasses of "filtered" ice. They tried so hard to accommodate our needs. Basic food but very good. Happily walked back to the room and amazingly had a very deep sleep until our wake up call at 4am. Then off to the airport. After a long check in, lots of travelers for the flight to Bali, we got through passport control and into the terminal. Spent our last bhat on two fantastic illy capuchinos. The best coffee we have had since out flight to Asia. Then duty-free for two bottles of Absolute. We took off as a brilliant sunrise colored the sky in a magenta and orange wash. We happened to meet a wonderful young man from Sweden who lives in Bali and shared a table with him while sipping our coffees. He had the seat across the aisle from me and we got into a long enlightened conversation touching on yoga, and the poison that effects the power of politics, and eventually came around to the inevitable "where are you staying". I told him Melati Cottages and he was surprised and told me he lives just across the street in a private home. We were very fortunate as his driver was picking him up at the airport and he offered to have us ride with him. $25 @ and a few forms later, we were through visa on arrival and wheeling our bags through the airport with Johan and Made the driver. A picturesque and sunny ride through small Balinese towns, lush greenery, statuary and wood carvings along the roadside, and rice fields thrilled us. We arrived at our little, favorite, family owned cottages and were in our room by 12:30 in the afternoon. By 2:30 it was pouring, and shocking waves of thunder and flashes of lightening were occurring every minute or two. We waited it out for an hour or two then walked the small trail to the sweet popular restaurant nearby called Lala and Lili's. Everything was wet, and the humidity was heavy. Big difference from Samui where it was hot but not thick and heavy heat like this. We had a cool ginger and lime drink, a fresh salad with avocado (the first salad in months)and settled into the view over a lotus pond and beyond to a rice paddy. Talkative expat settled uninvited at our table and regaled us with his stories non-stop for a couple of hours until we just had to take our leave and wander the path home. Hot hot hot. Took an evening swim in the pool and feel asleep to a symphony of frogs and cricket. This morning our bali coffee and tea was brought to our room where we sat on our porch in big cushioned bamboo chairs and sipped quietly as the morning slowly came into focus. Later we ate our lite breakfast of fruit, took a swim in the pool and headed out on a walk. It was 10:30 and delightfully hot and clear. Then as we were making our round about way to town the rain began again in earnest and we were forced to sit out the rain first at Murni's, a very old famous restaurant by the river. Then proceeded on as the rain tapered off, only to have it come down in sheets again. We stood under an overhang watching the traffic pass, then went into a little shop where an older but wise woman offered to sell us an umbrella. She smiled her toothless smile and with a giggle showed us several to choose from, wisely knowing she had a good chance of making a sale. We bought a nice sarong as well and all of us were happy. We marched on, wet and trying to watch our footing on the uneven broken cement sidewalks. Eventually we arrived at Tut Mok, where they serve the best coffee and have a nice view out to a local soccer field and and the food is excellent. We sat out the rain which was torrential. Hours went past. By 4:30 we decided to go ahead and eat our dinner. By 5:30 we were satiated with a delicious salad and grilled tuna steak. The rain had finally stopped and we could now walk home and save the $5 the taxi drivers would have charged. Clean cool air, but still humid. Got back to our place after 7 hours since we had left. Peeled off our damp clothes, took a swim, made a vodka tonic in our room and had an entirely enjoyable first full day in our beloved Bali.

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