Real food

The last two days have been food heaven enjoyed with our friends Ricardo and Plaa. They have graciously come to pick us up and take us to their favorite restaurants. Ricardo just returned from two weeks in Bali. We went to a seaside restaurant mostly frequented by locals. Plastic tables and chairs in the sand. You have to wiggle your chair legs in the sand to get the angle just right. We let Plaa order. Out came some delicious foods that you would never see on a tourist menu. A whole fish deep fried but not greasy. Very crunchy and fresh, with a grated raw mango relish. Crabs cooked in a light curry soup. Mussels with a fire red dipping sauce. Morning glory in oyster sauce and very delicious coconut rice. So satisfying. Since Ron and I don't have a phone, we communicate via email. Today, after a lovely morning on the beach, Ricardo and Plaa came and picked us up and we went for a good cappuccino at Jun's, where each cup and dish is beautifully crafted in ceramic and uniquely individual. Art adorns the walls and everything is tasteful. From there we went shopping. First the fresh vegetable market. Only a small space and most items still in plastic bags having been delivered that morning. Plaa is planning to cook for us tomorrow so she bought eggplant, baby rocket which is what they call arugula. Fresh giant mushrooms, baby green peas, and tomatoes. I couldn't resist some Persian cucumbers. Then we drove to the tiny shop selling fresh yogurt and fete and baba ganoush. I could feel my taste buds getting all excited as they haven't had these foods since we left the states. Now the real eating began. We drove over to the west side of the island for sunset. Stopped in the main town of Nathon for the nightly food market along the water front by the pier where the ferry's come in from the mainland. So many wonderful smells and foods I didn't know the names of. Ricardo's favorite is called Ha Mok. It is a kind of light custard with either scrimp or crab mixed inside with spices. Then like a tamale, it is rolled in a banana leaf and grilled. They tasted like heaven, so soft and light, but spicy and melt in your mouth. We drank a beer and watched the sun set into the sea. Next we drove up the coast a couple of miles and went to their favorite place, Won Tok. It means sun fall. Another simple restaurant, tables in the sand. Plaa ordered us plates of baby squid cooked whole with a light coating and fried to perfection. Dipped in another one of those red spicy sauces. Hot and sour soup with seafood, chunks of ginger, Keifer lime leaf, lemon grass and things you can't eat but which give the soup such intense flavor. Another dish of seafood cooked with tamarind sauce, the sweetest and least spicy dish but still with a zing. Rice and our green favorite, morning glory. At the end of the meal there were at least 20-25 red chili's left on the plates. We were too full to go for dessert, but maybe tomorrow.