Rain rain rain

Bali rain is like no other rain that you have experienced. It comes down in sheets with drops the size of huge pearls. They come down so hard they bounce off the road. Within an hour the water is reaching your ankles and the earth is saturated. Rivers of water flow down the streets. Tonight we made our way down our narrow curving street to a tiny Japanese restaurant. We were fooled by the clearing sky of the afternoons rain. By the time we barely ate our tofu and pickled vegetables, the rain had returned in earnest. We didn't think to bring the huge umbrella we bought our first day. We waited. And waited. The rain visible in the headlights of the cars and motorcycles circling past. Finally, we just gave in, rolled up our pants and walked into the pouring rain. The worst part was the narrow road twist and turns and crazy drivers race past you inches from your body, disregarding the conditions and the dark. Too much traffic on these tiny roads. But the rain was actually refreshing, we didn't have very far to go, and we were laughing by the time we arrived drenched back in our room. What else to do? We have a nice new motorcycle now, a black Honda Vario. Complete with a black Darth Vader helmet, a more petite white one and one rain poncho. We try to stay on the edge of the roads driving "hati hati" or slowly slowly. This is really a little scary, but also exciting. We can see some of the country roads and sights we would never get to see otherwise. The breeze is cooling and there is definitely a sense of exhilaration. Since it rains most afternoons we try to not get caught in the deluge. But the other day we went to see our artist friend who has painted some of the art in our house. He was happy to see us and of course we immediately saw a couple of large paintings we liked. Such things take time and while we were admiring his work, the heavens let loose with thunder and lighting so loud and stunning it was shocking. It is difficult to explain the amount of water that comes down in Asia. We just finally had to run across the street to a cafe and the three of us had a cappechino and waited. We spend a lot of time waiting, watching the rain. Finally it was a drizzle and so we got on the bike, ron in the poncho and me behind and off we cautiously road home. You really rejoice when you make it. At least we do. Yesterday we rode over to monkey forest and took the small motorcycle trail through the forest. Lots of monkeys hanging around. We went to the Three Monkeys restaurant which we used to eat breakfast at on our last trip. Still lovely as always. We sat in the back beside the small koi pond and relaxed with a fresh coffee and fruit. Then when I went in the back to take a photo I noticed several tables filled with dishes of food all laid out in a glorious colorful array. Turns out the owner was changing the menu and was having a tasting and visual display of all the new foods. We started talking and she graciously gave us a dish filled with roasted veggies, grilled strips of cheese and toasted home made crostini. A reduced balsamic vinegar dressing delicately dressed the veggies. We were so happy to eat such a treat. After a month of wonderful Thai foods this was a taste of home. I would have loved to work my way through a few of the other dishes they looked so beautiful. There are so many fantastic restaurants and so many shops filled with lovely clothing and colorful textiles in such a small area. Shopping here is much more fun and also so frustrating. First of all, you have to constantly be watching your step as the side walks are deadly. Uneven, broken cement. Huge missing sections where you could fall in. Sometimes they stick a palm leaf in the hole as a warning. It is so frustrating because you want to look in the shop windows but you could get hurt if you are not paying attention at all times. Still, we manage. our room has taken on more color as we drape new sarongs over our bed and chairs. The girls, Wayan and Made, come in the mornings to clean and leave flowers on our bed. It is all so easy. We traded in three of our books from home today at the wonderful Ganesh book store. They gave us 90000 Rupiah which is worth about $8. We bought two used books for 160000 Rupiah which we can read and return for half their value back. Not a bad deal really. And it was fun to browse the shelves in English and see what people have read, look at the hard bound new books she had to offer and all the postcards and few art supplies on hand. A really great store. Next door is Bali Buddha, a small health food shop and adjoining restaurant. We bought some natural mosquito repellent called "bug begone". Smells nice. Around the corner is a very tiny warang which is what they call a locals restaurant. Simple homemade foods, plain wooden tables, a few pictures on the walls and two very sweet woman serving you with a calm peacefulness. The food was so delicious and fresh. They made their own sambal, tomato hot sauce, which really gave my curry a rich flavor as well as a zing. We ate well for less than $8 and I can't wait to go back. So our days are full, swimming, walking, riding the motorcycle, shopping, eating, talking to other travelers, reading, writing, watching the rice grow. And it is still raining...