An Bang Beach

We have been staying the last two weeks in a very small village along the coast just a few miles from the town of Hoi An.  It is quaint and rustic. There is one narrow street running parallel to the ocean with many small lanes wide enough for motorcycles intersecting it. We stay at the Vina Beach Pool Villas. There are only six rooms and a small pool.  Staying here is like being in peoples living rooms. We can hear families shouting, kids crying, some very bad karaoke and other tourist. 

I can see across the lane into the local family's second floor altar room. They have colorful blinking Christmas lights encircling the shrine and the scent of incense perfumes the air. We prefer staying here to the intense tourist town of Hoi An.  People still say hello and smile at you and it feels sincere. Everyone recognizes me and knows my name. There is a small community of expats living here, interesting folk. Everyone rides a motorcycle. Green taxis gather at the main intersection to drive you to town for $4. There are a couple dozen local restaurants and a few bars. It’s enough. 

Ahn, our sweet manager, brings us a cup of Vietnamese coffee each morning. It’s strong and not very good but it gets us moving. Then we head over to Cozy Corner which is the best place for breakfast. The owner bakes her own dark rye and sour dough bread.  

She has a wonderful coffee machine and her cappacchino are delicious and hot. Ron orders the “American” breakfast which is huge. Omelet, crispy bacon, pancakes, and fresh fruit. I usually like the fruit bowl and homemade yogurt but occasionally I can not resist the fresh toast with lots of avocado, tomato, feta and a poached egg.  It’s always crowded. 

Then it’s off to the beach where Phuong sets up his chaise lounges with an umbrella and small table. You can stay there all day and just order food and drink from him. His wife runs their restaurant up the lane and is a good cook. He runs back and forth all day bringing food, beer, water, fresh coconuts, and cocktails to your chairs. 

The beach vendors are not pushy and most are woman in their conical hats. We like Moon, Lulu, and Louie the best. 

Each day we have to buy a little something from these sweet hardworking people. It’s not easy lugging their heavy wears around the beach. 

Mostly it’s just some beaded bracelets, bookmarks, lacquer boxes, playing cards and colorful magnets. These woman are clever and they all know exactly how much you’ve bought from the others. 

You’ve got to spread it around and keep them smiling! Today “Sunglass Charlie” came along with his smile and charming banter and I couldn’t resist buying a wild turquoise pair of fake Prada sunglasses. 

It can get pretty intense occasionally when the motorcycles honk right behind you to let you know they are there, the locals play their music extremely loud, the little girls scream and cry in a pitch that can break glass and the karaoke, oh the karaoke… it sometimes makes me crazy.