Luang Prabang ~ Laos

This quaint Buddhist town situated between the junction of the Mekong River and the Nam Khan River is one of my favorite places in SE Asia.  It has a sweetness and pace of life I enjoy. No buildings on the peninsula can be higher than the many temples, so nothing exceeds two stories.  

The streets are bisected with brick paved walking lanes so you can have some really sweet wanderings past peoples homes and businesses. 

The French were here for many years and left a legacy of good coffee, delicious croissants  and baguettes.  Their lovely stucco villas contrast with the old wooden houses of the Laotians.  Gardens of tropical plants and huge trees along the rivers offer pleasant places to have a rest, sip a coconut, watch the boats cruise along the Mekong, and dine under garden lights in the evening. 

It’s magical.

We are staying in a beautiful hotel, Maison Delabua, who are the care takers of several large UNESCO protected lily ponds within the grounds.  The property has been in this family for several generations. It’s so nice to sit beside the ponds eating breakfast and watching the lilies open in the sun.  As the light changes throughout the day it is just stunning to see the colors intensify. It’s quiet and restful and our room feels old world with thick walls, dark hardwood polished floors, and high pitched ceilings.  Most of the guest are French. The locals all say “Sa Bai Dee” and put their hands together in greeting and my favorite is their singsong thank you of “Cop Chai Li Li” … soft and gentle.  Like them.

Our days are spent walking, interacting with shop keepers, drinking cappacchino and enjoying observing the life on the river. It’s not too crowded as in years past.  

Covid put a real shut down on the town but the tourists are returning slowly. Unfortunately the road from China has created an influx of newly released Chinese in their camper vans. The “blue license plates” a reality of their incoming cars.  It’s sad too because the Laotians depend on their coming and spending money.  But they can be quite overwhelming.  We were bummed when the Chinese were suddenly allowed to travel fearing an exodus. Selfishly we enjoyed their absence in Thailand. We flew here just as their Chinese New Year, or Lunar New Year, was in full swing.  We worried there would be too many and bringing their Covid variants! But truthfully it has been half as many as we feared and kind of quiet.  

I love cruising through the streets at night seeing the temples lit up and solemn. 

Such sweet energy.  

We met a nice couple from Dublin who had lived in the states for many years. They suggested we take a sunset cruise cruise down the Mekong together.  Usually I just find a poor simple boatman and hire him for a couple hours on his old wooden boat but this time I gave up control and just let them make the plans. We found ourselves on a double decker boat complete with comfortable chairs, good music, and strong drinks. It was FUN!  We motored up river watching the sun set behind the surrounding mountains, then cruised back as the town’s lights came on.  So pretty from the water.

Morning market offerings…

Coco with Obama