Luang Prabang, Laos

I always find it exciting to fly in the small turbo prop into Luang Prabang because we are low enough to see the green forested mountains and the Mekong River snaking through the dense greenery.  The plane drops in low over the small ancient town, a peninsula sandwiched between the larger Mekong and the smaller Nam Khan.  There in the center is Phusi Hill, about a 100 meters high mountain crowned with a golden pagoda.  I love seeing this from the air.   It is picturesque and quaint.  No rooftops are higher than the temple rooftops.  The temples of LP are diverse and beautiful.  Not as bright and gaudy as in Thailand, more serene and simple, many wooden and decorated with old hand painted murals, colored glass mosaics, and stenciled columns.  This is a seriously Buddhist town.  Every morning around 5am the big drums are beaten to awaken the monks.  Shortly afterwards the monks line up in the streets while still dark, and walk in silence to collect their alms.  Mostly rice from the local women who sit on woven bamboo mats in their nice sarongs and colorful silk sash, dropping a small portion into each monk’s brass bowl hanging in a woven sling from his shoulder.  It is a sight to behold, but unfortunately too many tourist have spoiled the ritual.  At 5pm, the drums are beaten once again to signal evening prayers.  Or for us, sunset drinks!  We stayed in a small hotel built around two large lotus ponds, which were so beautiful.  We thought this would insulate us a bit from the crowds as it was on a smaller street just out of the main part of town.  Unfortunately, we were going to be there during Chinese New Year.  Never again!  The Chinese had built a road a few years ago, and the poor little town was overwhelmed with cars with “blue” license plates.  The Chinese seem to travel in large groups, and they take over restaurants and temples, streets and hotels.  It changes the flavor of everything.  We thought we would be immune to the noise but sadly the guesthouse bar on the next corner had horrible music all day, for two days.  The instrumental wasn’t too bad, but the singing was terrible!  Happily, they had to stop all music by 10:00 pm due to the monks needing their sleep!  But, we managed.  Rode our bicycles all over town.  Walked four or five miles through the smaller streets.  Visited morning markets and night markets.  And especially enjoyed having a sunset Beer Lao in some simple cafe, sitting on hard chairs along the Mekong watching the sun melt into the hills beyond the river.  The Laotians were kind and gentle.  Their voices were soft and sing song.  Always watching out for your every need.  I hated to see more trash strewn on many of the streets.  And as there was a heat spell the week we stayed, the air became hazy and filled with smoke and dust.  It was hot!  Around 95 degrees each day.  We would always ride in the morning and return to our beautiful pool around 1pm to rest and recover.  Then back out in the evening.  It wasn’t much cooler, but the sun wasn’t so brutal.  Everywhere you look are textiles, temples and trees.  Gardens and old restored French villas.  Old wooden Laotian homes.  So many layers and textures to this wonderfully beautiful town.  I hope it isn’t consumed by the Chinese.  What a pity that would be.