Phnom Penh

Touring around Cambodia is very easy.  You can hire a private car and driver and leave at your own choice of time, or take the mini bus with about twelve other people in a large van, or brave the local big buses.  We hired drivers so we could leave when we wanted, usually around 11:00 in the morning after a leisurely breakfast and final swim.  Simply ask your guesthouse manager to set it up.  Most of the cars were either Toyota Camry or Lexus 300XS.  One driver told us most of these cars come used from America.  The roads are narrow, normally two lanes with dirt shoulders.  Everyone uses their horns to signal passing but never in anger.  But it can be quite nerve racking as both sides use the middle to pass and often you have to slip back into your lane just inches from the fender of the car or truck you just passed.  We always felt pretty good about the drivers except one who we asked to slow down.  He overcompensated and went very slowly after that... On the last drive to Phnom Penh, the driver got a phone call as we were nearing the city, and after a short conversation handed me his phone.  The guy on the phone explained in fair English that the driver would have to drop us off at the airport out of town and he would pay a tuktuk to take us into the city due to traffic.  I said that was not our arrangement and he was to take us to our hotel.  The guy then said it is no problem "Madam" because the driver will pay the tuktuk.  I said "no" we needed to go to the hotel.  Round and round we spoke with him saying "no problem" and me saying "no".  Meanwhile Ron used his cellphone to call the Secret Garden where we had been staying and who had arranged the driver for us.  Thankfully the Cambodian manager answered the phone and he was amazingly helpful.  We gave our phone to the driver, who by the way spoke no English, and they had quite a conversation in Cambodian.  Meanwhile I was holding onto the drivers phone.  Some sort of agreement was reached and we again spoke with the manager who explained to us the driver got another job picking up a tourist at 4:00 at the airport and was worried he wouldn't make it to the hotel and back to the airport because of traffic.  No matter, we had a deal and he had to take us to the hotel.  There was no way we were riding in an open tuktuk one hour from the airport to the hotel.  The exhaust would have killed us.  This is where having a phone can be extremely helpful.  But we liked the poor driver and his predicament was causing us some stress as we cursed every red light and every construction site that slowed traffic into town.  The congestion was horrible but we made it to the hotel and I think he had enough time to get back to the airport for his pickup, and five hour drive back to the beach.  Arriving in Phnom Penh after the peaceful time in Kep and Otres Beach was a stunning change of pace.  Besides the congestion and traffic our lungs were assaulted by the smog and exhaust.  But our hotel, The Pavilion, was simply wonderful.  Another sanctuary from all the noise and chaotic activity.  The grounds were part of the royal family's home many years ago, hence the beautiful older colonial building and mature gardens.  Service was quietly excellent.  We had a big room with high ceilings that were embossed with lots of detail, four poster bed and lace netting, and large modern bathroom.  A grand sweeping staircase took us downstairs to one of two pools.  But once you walked out the heavy wooden gates, past the elephant statues the full on assault came to life.  Crossing the street was a major act of self preservation.  Thankfully we found sweet cafes and a few nice shops.  My favorite was called Bobo, owned by an Australian Xpat with good taste and and lots of lovely clothes, hand dyed sarongs, and an interesting collection of jewelry and beaded baskets.  We spent our last three nights in PP and all told we slept in ten different beds in 26 days, took six private cars to different areas, one boat ride, and lots of tuktuks.  Our flight was scheduled for 1:30 so we left the hotel at 11:00 am for the hour drive to the airport, and flew one hour to Bangkok.  We managed to run through most of the airport from International to domestic as we only had little more than an hour between flights, got through security, the transit check, visa on arrival, and made it to the gate for our flight to Koh Samui with five minutes to spare!