Flower offerings to the boat gods...

All best made plans.....

Well in hind sight, TAKE THE PLANE! Horrible night on the train. Diesel fumes and loud machinery just beneath our seats mid car which vibrated all nite and got worse every time we made a stop which was many. Like an iceberg as the A/C was blowing full blast. Just when we thought it would never end, hours after they told us it would arrive, we get off only to discover the buses waiting to take people to various destinations. The driver can only speak one word in English, "samui" which is the first island on our path, or so we think. All different than our last trip. The bus ends up taking 2 hours, and no pee break since the train. No communication other than finding out since the train was late, we now must wait 4 hours at the ferry port until our boat leaves. Exhausted and a long ride still ahead. More diesel fumes wafting in the windows. Will be 24 hours by the time we get to our destination. What was I thinking!!!

Blues compadres

Street fruit

Second class seats

Riding the rails

Ron and I are in a second class sleeper heading south from Bangkok to Suret Thani where we will take a 6:30 am bus to the ferry that will take us across the china sea to Koh Phongkon. We have had a most fantastic 4 days in Bangkok after our return from bucolic Burma. After awakening with the sun and retiring at 9 pm, we hit the streets of Khoa San Road like old pro's. Flew in at 8:30pm and had dinner with our dear friend Jim Aplington at 9:30 along with his Tibetian friends who just happened to be in BKK. We talked and drank beer and ate street food until 11:00 pm. The next morning after a leisurely breakfast along the river at our guest house the three of us took the river taxi to Wat Pho, where we went to the most influential massage school in Thailand and had wonderful massages with herbs. The herbs were small fist size bundles of heated herbs that they massage into you body after having manipulated you into a noodle. I loved the herbs. The smell was intoxicating and filled your lungs with freshness. A sudden rainstorm left us waiting beneath the roof of a temple with at least a hundred Buddha statues adorned with gold. A dozen tourist huddled together, peacefully waiting. A bright energetic Thai woman came along laughing and offering cheap plastic parka's for 3 times their value. We all declined, the rain continued, and she laughed as she went in search of the next sale. where we stay in Banglampoo is famous for the hippie element. The streets are filled with every kind of imaginable tout selling t-shirts, jewelry, clothing, books, and endless carts of food from fresh fruit, pad Thai, beer and mixed drinks, freshsqueezed tangerine juice, coconuts, and indescribable vast amounts of stuff that grabs your attention and strikes your fancy. We realize that this is our "burning man". It is so beyond your imagination unless you have been here to expience. A Fallini movie and height ashberry movie all rolled into one. So much fun. We met up with jim and his friends who live in BKK and had drinks sitting by the side of the road, the show always alluring. Then dinner at a favorite place down an alley with surprisingly killer food and ambiance. Then a late nite stroll to the blues club where a hot group of guys were laying down some strong music and the vodka was flowing. Making a plan for the next weeks took some short consideration. The planes were full, we did not want to go to another city for more shopping and smog. So we scored the last two seats on this train, in second class. Thirty-two bunks per car and two toilets. Ron and I packed a picnic of fresh tangerine juice, absolute vodka, sandwiches, chips and water. Wipes for the table and hands. It is rolling along as I type rocking back and forth, I In my small bunk. Not bad really. Priacy curtain, soft foam pad, fresh sheet and a big white towel for cover. Ron is above me. We ordered a bucket of ice and glasses, and savored several delicious drinks mellowing out the rough edges and lightening the mood. We arrive at 6:30am and then take a bus to the ferry where we then set out across the sea for a few hours hopefully on smooth water for first Koh Samui and then Koh Phangon. I went online and booked us a room at a very chichi resort on a rocky hill between two cresant white sand beaches. Looking forward to relaxing in the comfort of pristine warm water, eating fresh caught grilled fish, and sinking into the gentle pace of the sea and sun. As we rock and roll along, from the rails of 2nd class... I bid you sweet dreams as I slide into my vodka induced soma. Sawaadee ka

Colorful Bagan family

Balloons at sunrise in the morning mist

Arriving at our cottage on Inle Lake

Have you missed us

Have you missed us? Ron and I have been outside of Yangon for the past 12 days and have had no Internet, newspaper, or TV. Imagine! It has been wonderful to divorce ourselves from the rest of the world and immerse ourselves in the slow pace of the countryside. Leaving Yangon we flew on a 72 seat prop plane to Heho airport an hours drive on rough roads to the town of Naungshwe. All flights require you to reconfirm a day ahead. Your guesthouse manager will take your tickets and do this for you. We have found that all flights will be later than you are told. The planes come roaring down the runway, taxi as close to the small terminals as possible, unload passengers and baggage as fast as they can, then load the waiting passengers and roar off down the runway. About 10 minutes turnaround. A bit unsettling, but somehow it seems to work. It is very crowded with tourists and most of the flights and hotels are full. We have been most fortunate in that we came here thinking we could just leave all up to chance, but times have changed. Thankfully our hostess at the charming Inn we stayed in Yangon called ahead to the next Naungshwe and we slipped into the Princess Cottages on a cancellation. Only eight cottages in a lovely garden, and a pool. The town is small, diet roads mostly, abit funky and low key. But, we relaxed in our garden at the edge of town listening to birds, crickets and locals riding their bikes singing out loud. Chanting morning and night from the nearby monastery. We could walk the entire town, or better, ride a one speed bicycle. Nearby was the best restaurant in town which we ate at each nite. Awaking with the sunrise, in bed around 8:30. We could only stay 4 nites as he was booked up, so we ended up reserving a bungalow about an hours boat ride away on Inly Lake. The bungalow was on stilts on the water. Most people hire boats to take them around the lake visiting small towns, markets, and the usual tourist things like silversmiths, weavers of local textiles, cigar makers. And the many temples. Every place mostly shacks on stilts, dirt roads, very poor existence. But the people are cleaver, and have created floating gardens for veggies on little man made islands and the fishermen go out each day in tiny narrow wooden canoe and control the rudder/oar with their foot as they man the nets. Sunsets are brilliant and then the roar of all the boat engines taking all the travelers on the lake becomes silence. Sky filled with bright stars and nothing to do but eat dinner and read a book. After a very mellowing 6 nights in these two places, we took an afternoon boat back across the lake to town, then a bicycle rickshaw to our bungalow where our manager had our airline tickets. He informed us that the plane would be an hour later. This was no surprise. The hospitality was so gracious. We hung out there, they served us cool smoothies and later watermelon, arranged our taxi to the airport and took care of all of our needs. No charge. After an hour ride back to the airport we waited just a bit longer,than we thought. Met a nice couple from England who happened to be on our flight and staying at the same hotel we reserved. Then there was a commotion and a group of young Burmese moved as one towards us and announced in very accented English that our airline, Yangon Air, was not coming, but they would put us on Mandalay Air. We were whisked onto the flight with our bags before as the plane was running late and was doing the fast turn around. After we took off, we discovered we were not going straight to Bagan as we planned, but flying to Mandalay first, then flying to Bagan. oh well, you just have to give up control and go with it. Bagan is one of the most unique and special places on earth. Thousands of temples on a vast plain. To make up for the extra landing and takeoff, we came in just as the sun was setting over Bagan and was rewarded with incredible views. When we got to the the hotel we found that our room had a most outstanding view. We were located adjacent to the architectural reserve and from our second floor room, we could look out over the plain and see hundreds of temples. Breathtaking. At night, several of the larger temples were lit up. This is many miles of temples. Mornings by sunrise we had a show of six huge balloons lifting over the plain, tourist ten to a basket paying $300 to view the temples from the air. We got to watch from below. Renting bicycles we rode several days over gentle hills to many of the temples. We chose to forgoe a guide so we could elude the regular tourist groups. Afternoons were so hot that we would return to our hotel and lay by the ice cold pool to refresh. Sunset we would bike off again for another show. Amazing light. Evenings, dinner outside on the patio. Simple curries, vegetables, rice. Very very simple. We flew back to Yangon late last nite. Back to our lovely Inn which we reserved when we left. The entire trip we have been blessed to have very nice accommodation and people looking out for us, "minding our journey". One last day and then back to Thailand to rendezvous with our dear friend Jim and another phase of the trip. So, from my sweet bed at the Classique Inn, looking out the window to the top of the temple light in the distance, we send you greetings Burmese style, "Mingalaba"

Little monks

Asia air

Leaving BKK was comfortable as we had a late afternoon flight and late check out. Weather had improved greatly. Air quality was nice and we were getting our travel groove back. Wandered the small soi, or alley ways, and bought a fresh bottle of cold tangerine juice. Packed our bags. Always packing our bags. Ate lunch along the river and felt good. Ron scored a brand new taxi with the plastic still on the seats. Usually you get old worn taxi with no shocks and bottomed out seats. Took an hour to reach the airport. Long lines for check in. We are flying Asia Air as they are the bargain airlines these days. No thrills. No drinks. Pay extra for every increase in kilo. We bought 20 kilo each, but when we weighed our bags mine was only 11K and Ron's was 16K. Room to expand. Waited at the airport a good two hours. Flight delayed about 30 minutes. Almost full. So for the one hour flight to Yangon, we spent 3.5 hours getting there. The arrival in Burma was interesting. Filling out forms, and Q-ing up at passport control, waiting for stamp in your passport. Then another longer wait for your bags. Walking outside the airport was chaos. Loud whistles summoning taxis, crowds of men wearing long lungi's like sarongs, endless cars bellowing exhaust and loud voices. We stood there taking it all in when a very sweet faced young man stood before me and said in a soft voice "you wish for a taxi". We said yes. And "how much?". He said $10 which was less than we had expected so off we went with him. Of course his old white car had no windows and we left in a lurch and a grumble of gears. The air quality was beyond anything breathable which I learn now is not only from the exhaust of vehicles, but the fires most poor people burn to cook. We choked along until we made it to an area that was obviously upscale. Large homes, embassy's and trees. We pulled into our small inn and felt relief from all the chaotic energy outside. We were really lucky to have a reservation at the Classique Inn. A sanctuary. Nice garden, sweet people and only 10 rooms. With a shower in our cool room we went for dinner in the garden where the most precious faced young man served us in a slow and most careful manner. Learned how to say hallo, mingalabar, which literally means blessings to you. Winding down, renewing our energy. Last evening we went to the famous and most revered pagoda in Burma, the Shewedagon. Spent hours there with hundreds of Burmese and monks, tourist. All walking barefooted on old marble stones worn smooth from hundreds of years of bare feet. Easy, peaceful. No hype. No selling of anything. Just gentle people strolling and smiling. Scented flower offerings. Huge hanging temple bells. Monks softly chanting. We watched the sunset and sat and enjoyed watching the show. Very touching. Today, we pack our bags again and take an after noon flight to Inle Lake. 13 miles long lake surrounded by green hills. We will stay here and fill our lungs with fresh air and hike around, take some rides on the lake and generally relax. More on Inle later. For now we leave our sanctuary and return to the airport and the waiting game.... Mingalabar.

Hurry and Wait!

Sunday morning Bangkok. We have had a wild 4 days here after the 30 hour trip from home to BKK. Takes time to adjust to the noise, energy, heat, smog, traffic coming at you from the opposite direction and the intense sun. We had jet lag for several days, awaking at 3am. Watched the river traffic from our room. Had to get off to an early start our first morning to take the water taxi a half hour down the river to the sky train. Rode that to central BKK and then walked to the embassy where we stood in line with tons of travelers. 2photos, 4pages of info, photo copies of our passports and a very unfriendly clerk and we were told to come back in 5 hours. Took the sky train again to the beautiful shopping mall where we wandered around, drank Starbucks and ate fantastic hot sour soup in the food court. Makes anything we have in states look dumpy. Food beyond wonderful. Then back on the train, walk to the embassy and Stan in line again, this time in the sun. Wait another hour and then jam into the room and stand in line and receive our passports with our nice new $75 visas. Then back on the train, to the river taxi, half hour down river to our stop. Took 9 hours total. We were beat. Yesterday we did not feel well. The smog did not help. Still, we had to see about buying our tickets to Burma. High season. No cheap fares. The old days of just free spirit travel are over. Internet and email has changed everything. So tomorrow we leave for Yangon. We have no reservation, but have hope that all will be well in the long run. Since writing this note the Internet service has gone out 5 times which requires me to re-sign in. So frustrating. Not to mention all of my blogger directions are in Thai script. Hope I can post this. Internet service from Burma is not reliable so this may be it for a couple of weeks. We shall see. Aaahhh the joys of travel. Hurry and wait. Well, the tangerine juice is beyond delicious, the orchids abound, and the pool is refreshing. Sawaadee ka dear friends

Last minute bye bye's